Thursday, April 11, 2013

The modern Vietnamese woman

A woman sells flowers around Hanoi to support her family.
Other women sell fruit or other sundries and
sometimes don't see their families for days. 
In many ways it seems that gender equality in Vietnam is far behind the equality our mothers and grandmothers worked hard to create in the Western world. Women are still expected to defer to men, and in particular most men don't even know how to cook or take care of the home, as domesticity is the wife's domain. There are certain exceptions, of course. But in our apartment, the three lovely Vietnamese teaching assistants were the picture of girls trained in being a "woman." Indeed, at times I wondered whether this domestic training came at the price of the girls' academic and professional interests. Sometimes the combination of their household work with their volunteer work filled their days so completely that they couldn't join the rest of us in exploring the city or participating in the ever-important "cultural exchange." (Whatever that means!)

I learned a great deal from my Vietnamese sisters about cooking, though naturally the cooking was secondary to the cultural lessons I will treasure. I have been impressed day in and day out by the initiative taken by my friends to provide for our household, and occasionally for the one to five guests we receive at mealtimes, since our apartment is also part office.

After my firsthand observations of gender roles in Vietnam, I had a fair amount of background knowledge when I visited the Vietnam Women's Museum in Hanoi. Normally, I much prefer social and cultural museums to art museums, and this was no exception. I wandered around the three stories of the museum and learned so much about marriage rituals and the role of women revolutionaries during war periods in Vietnam. The floor dedicated to fashion through the ages didn't hold my interest, but the photo here made a lasting impression on me. It shows a woman reunited with her son after seven years' absence; he had been sentenced to death.

This photo, strategically left until the last portion of the revolutionary women exhibit, moved me to tears in an instant. I realized that the Vietnamese culture of women as caretakers comes from a very genuine place of caring and devotion, qualities that we sometimes neglect as independent American women who have been raised to take what we want and prove we're just as good as men.

It's humbling to think that perhaps the Vietnamese caretaker mother has just as much power as the breadwinning American mother, in a completely different sense of the word.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Lifestyle snapshot

The foreigners living in Licogi-18 apartments
Trying chè on the street: cold yogurt drink with various fixings:
red bean, tapioca, mango... unidentified jellies!
Hanoi has been fairly more work than play, but I like it! So far I have had about equal good and bad lessons. I'm learning a lot from my mistakes, which I have come to terms with, but it's still no less frustrating. I also gave a presentation and demo lesson on blended learning. It was quite a success, despite the fact that the 500 primary school kids I presented to were hesitant to shout at full-volume when I asked them to! The demo lesson was fantastic, given the challenges of blended learning that I was already familiar with from my work in Oakland. I hope to post some pictures of that soon, since the CVTD staff was at full force behind the lens during the lesson.

CVTD entrance — a "light" day for shoes
We recently welcomed two new American volunteer teachers, so there were seven of us in the three-bedroom apartment. And yesterday, we added another Vietnamese teaching assistant to the fold, so there are eight of us. It's nice to live in this social atmosphere, but we have certainly been frustrated at times by the lack of communication from higher up when these big changes are about to happen. Just like when our apartment became the office headquarters, we didn't have notice of our new flatmates until sometimes the night before their arrival — or even the morning of!

The chairs at the streetside restaurants are TINY!
Besides all that, life is pretty much approaching normal, such that I'm afraid I don't have much to write about! I've gone to a few more Couchsurfing events and tried new foods, and walked countless kilometers around Hanoi... catching a glimpse of the peacocks and macaques in the Botanical Garden along the way... (and then falling asleep on a park bench while park staff raked leaves in my personal space). This weekend, several of us from the apartment will check out the famous Hanoi water puppet show, for only $5! I'm as relieved as ever for the cheap cost of living here, as my savings are dwindling frighteningly fast.

I liked seeing the kids looking out
over the schoolyard, near the botanical garden